My first make of 2020: slim navy knit pants.
I wanted a pair of winter pants that would be very comfortable for working in my home office, but still presentable for walking in the neighborhood and going out.
Ponte de roma is a fabric I had never sewn with. Ponte is a double knit, resulting in thickness from the two layers, with a greater stability and firmness than other knit fabrics. These characteristics make it easy to sew with. Pants made from ponte are opaque, not as clingy and skin tight as leggings, and can have pockets. The ponte I bought has a composition of 66% rayon, 30% nylon, and 4% spandex. Other pontes have polyester as the primary fiber.
My pattern was the Patterns for Pirates Mama Bear Joggers. I bought these because they have a variety of waistband, pocket, hem, and rise options. Looking at the size chart, I discovered my measurements put me in a size M hip, XL high hip, XS thighs, and a L calf! I have strange proportions! This explains why I have problems with getting a good fit in ready-to-wear.
Below is a diagram from an article on the New Mexico State University website. I’m a heart shape.
I compared the medium pattern piece to my already modified Itch to Stitch Mountain View Pull-on Jeans (laid on top) which are designed for a stretch woven.
It seems the joggers pattern is shaped for a diamond figure, and I have the concave proportions of a heart.
I had to reduce the hip and upper thigh, add width to the lower leg, and add to the rise. I also shortened the legs by about six inches. This is another advantage to sewing: instead of lopping the six inches off the bottom of a pair of pants I shorten the pattern in two places, above and below the knee, and am able to keep the proportions correct.
As I began sewing the pants, they started morphing into the Mountain View pants which I’ve made several times. I prefer the construction sequence of those pants with the outer leg seam sewn last, which allows for ease of altering. I also used the Mountain View waistband, which is quick and easy. An inner and outer waistband are sewn together and the elastic is stretched and sewn to the seam allowance. I realized I really didn’t need the other pattern. It makes more sense to use the pattern that I had already fitted.
I should have used a thinner fabric for the pocket lining because they bag out a little at the bottom.
Worn with a pullover sweater I knitted way back in 2007 and still wear.
Worn with a raglan tee shirt I sewed in December:
Dressed up with a favorite thrifted velour sweater knit top, and matching purse:
I gained a few pounds post holidays and some of my pants have been feeling a little tight when sitting or eating. These ponte pants feel super comfortable and cozy, look flattering, and are a welcome addition to my wardrobe.