Knit Midi Dress

I stopped sewing shorts to make a dress!

Last year, I bought a few different printed rayon spandex knits.  My intention for the 2 yards of this big pink roses on navy background print was to sew a birthday dress.

I cut the dress long, and was undecided how I wanted to finish it: maxi, midi, a drawstring or elasticized waist, add pockets or not, or maybe make two pieces.  My indecision led to not finishing the dress in time for my birthday, and I wore a ready-to-wear dress out to dinner instead.  I decided to put the unfinished pieces in storage and move on to something else.

This year I don’t plan on going out, although outdoors dining is allowed in my city.  But my present to myself is to finish this dress.

Butterick 5607 is an old pattern, and is meant for woven fabrics.  Well, I broke the rules and used it to sew a very stretchy knit! The pattern has 3 neck variations; I chose the scoop. The dress style is a simple shift with a slight A-line shape, and an all-in-one facing is provided for the neckline and armholes. It has bust darts which were not needed on a knit fabric. This pattern would also work well for sleeveless tops.

I had previously cut out the dress and basted it together, and cut out the facings.  I sewed the side seams, and followed the directions which have you sew the shoulder seams last.  Then some hand sewing is required to finish the top of the armholes. While sewing I suddenly realized I could have used the burrito method for a clean finish, but didn’t want to change course.  In the burrito method the shoulders are sewn first, the side seams are sewn last, and the whole garment is  rolled up to sew the armholes.

I stabilized the shoulders by sewing on top of a twill ribbon. This was especially important because the whole garment hangs from the shoulders and my fabric is very stretchy.

Later, I took the ribbon off half of the seam to reduce bulk. (The outer garment shoulder and facing is sewn in one continuous pass). I also edge stitched the neckline and armholes because the weight of the dress was pulling the front down exposing the facing.  I  didn’t skip the understitching, but my fabric was still misbehaving.  I added side slits, sewed a 2 inch hem a little above the ankle, and I was finished.

I sewed a sash with the fabric I cut from the bottom, although I like the fit of the dress just as much without.

I had mixed feelings about the print: first I liked it, then I thought it cloying.  I didn’t add pockets because the dress looks dressy to me, and not like an everyday dress, even though it’s as comfortable as a nightgown.

I enjoyed posing to show off the slit in the photos!

I’m glad I took this birthday (plus one year) dress from UFO to done!

It’s a Grown-up Romper!

There was an Instagram sew-a-long for jumpsuits, and armed with the Sallie pattern by Closet Case Patterns and a few yards of a rayon jersey fabric, I jumped in to give this type of garment a try.

I don’t own any jumpsuits.  Would I like it?  Would it be hard to get in and out of?

The Sallie jumpsuit and maxi dress pattern is designed for knit fabric and has 3 views to mix and match.  I made view A which has a front and back v-neck, a self lined bodice, slash pockets, and an elastic waist.  I shortened the legs to make a romper. I think the last time I wore a romper was when I was a toddler!

I wanted a tropical print, but the fabric I bought wasn’t quite what I had in mind.  I like the leaves, but the background is quite light colored.  I would have preferred more of a blue and green print. This is also my first time working with rayon jersey which was very lightweight and stretchy.

The neckline uses clear elastic between the two layers of the bodice for a clean finish without any stitches showing or a band.  I’ve used clear elastic two times before without any problem.  With this make, I had a problem with one side of the neckline rippling and gaping.  In fact, it bothered me so much I made the bodice twice.

discarded bad neckline

Because the fabric was light colored, I decided to underline the shorts portion with a nude ribbed rayon knit I already had in my little stash.  Following this underlining tutorial by Seamwork, I pinned and hand basted the two fabrics together.

The inseam is 5 inches. I hand hemmed the shorts stitching through the interlining only.

The biggest surprise came when I sewed the top and bottom together, and tried the romper on.  The weight of the shorts caused the bodice to drop way too low, and the crotch was much too long. I had to keep hacking off fabric from both the bottom of the bodice and the top of the shorts until the fit was good.  I estimate I cut off 2 to 4 inches.  I also raised both the front and back necklines when I cut the bodice for a second time.  Being very short, I’m about 6 or 7 inches less in height than the pattern is drafted for, and these changes were necessary to fit my proportions.

This turned into a more challenging project because of my problems with the pattern, the fabric, and the fit.  Challenging is a code word for frustrating.

I bought another rayon/spandex jersey knit fabric at the same time and was planning on making the dress version of the pattern.  The elastic waist of the romper created bunchy seam allowances that poke me, so now I’m thinking I might enjoy wearing a dress without a waist seam better.  Another possibility for a future make from this pattern might be view C worn over a top in a cotton jersey with a tie belt instead of an elastic waist.

So, what do I think of this romper? While I can get in and out of it, I’m not jumping at chances to wear it.  I’m not a jumpsuit convert yet!  Shorts and a sleeveless rayon top are still my summer faves.