After sewing several simple tops from repurposed extra large tee shirts, I was more than ready to buy a yard of new knit fabric to make my next top. I found a gorgeous coral feather print; a cotton knit with a little spandex.
My plan was to make the Maria Denmark Day to Night Drape Top which is a pdf pattern from my make nine list for this year.
My bust put me at a size XL, while my waist and hips were within the L size. I opted to cut the XL. The pattern has a choice of sIeeve lengths. I cut short sleeves, but added 2 to 3 inches to the length.
When I read the instructions I noticed that a rayon knit was recommended, and I was working with a less drapey cotton knit. Trouble ahead? The soft folds of the neckline is dependent on a fabric that is light and fluid. The elongated top of the bodice folds to the inside to form a lining for the draped cowl.
The back neck uses clear elastic as the facing. The elastic is enclosed by the fabric. I liked this finish, and think it’s a little dressier than a banded tee shirt. I will use this technique again.
After sewing the seams, I wasn’t comfortable with the neckline, as it was a little too low. I didn’t want to end up with a top that wouldn’t get worn. I googled for solutions, and found this “cowl raising” post from 2013 by Samina of Sew Everything blog. I had even commented on the post at the time, but time passes and memory fades. It was too late to change the pattern piece so I needed to improvise and figure out a quick fix. I unpicked the seams and cut 1/2 inch from the edge of the cowl on each side. It worked really well.
The sleeves were a breeze to do, as they were sewn in flat. I sewed the cowl lining into the sleeve seams.
To finish, I needed to hem the bottom and sleeves. I’d already broken all my double needles, and I had been unsatisfied with the amount of raised tunneling that had resulted, so that method was out.
I liked the way 60 Something Teacher had finished her Nora top with topstitching, so I followed suit. I did two lines of topstitching with a narrow zigzag, and I like the result. It was quick, easy, and lies flat.
The top is quite form fitting for an XL. It fits me more like a medium in ready-to-wear. One big difference between sewing patterns from independent companies and patterns from the Big 4 is sizing. If I chose a size based on my measurements from McCalls or Simplicity, the item of clothing would be too big. With whatever pattern I’m using I measure the pattern piece if I can’t find finished garment measurements.
Thank you, sewing friends and bloggers for sharing your knowledge and experience! And thank you, dear readers and friends for following my sewing and making adventures!
Stitch It Again 