Monthly Archives: February 2020

Upcycled Boxy Tops

I used the Maya pattern by Marilla Walker to transform two cotton pillowcases and a rayon rectangular sarong cover-up into two unique tops. The Maya is a simple pattern with a generous amount of ease and cut-on sleeves without seams.

Top 1:

I used a pillowcase with an interesting asymmetrical print, and another with a  coordinating solid gray color.

I arranged my pattern pieces to use the deep hems of the pillowcases, and I finished my seams with flat fell seams on the inside. I drafted my own neck facing, because the one supplied by the pattern has a center seam, and I didn’t want bulk there. I used the plain pillowcase for the sides, sleeve cuffs, and facing.

I attached the pillowcase tag to the neckline.

I like the everyday comfort of cotton which gives this top a soothing, casual feel.

 

Top 2:

I bought this striking print pareo or sarong for $2 at a garage sale. It still had the tag attached with a copyright date of 1994 and a little booklet showing the many ways to wear it.

The print was so beautiful in its entirety, I hesitated to cut it up, but I felt it had stayed hidden in a drawer long enough.

I expanded my pattern pieces to be full size, and spent some time playing with the pattern placement.  I had originally wanted the lizards to be oriented vertically heading up towards my shoulder, but that didn’t work out.

I used french seams in the construction, and again attached the original tag.  I decided to use the fringe on the arms, but not on the bottom.

The top is quite eye catching with its statement print and different front and back. This rayon top feels dressier, and has a Southwestern look.

I’m always on the lookout for different sources of fabric to sew with.  What’s next?  I would love to find a pretty tablecloth, or maybe a linen towel.

 

Ponte de Roma Knit Pants

My first make of 2020: slim navy knit pants.

I wanted a pair of winter pants that would be very comfortable for working in my home office,  but still presentable for walking in the neighborhood and going out.

Ponte de roma is a fabric I had never sewn with.  Ponte is a double knit, resulting in thickness from the two layers, with a greater stability and firmness than other knit fabrics.  These characteristics make it easy to sew with. Pants made from ponte are opaque, not as clingy and skin tight as leggings, and can have pockets. The ponte I bought has a composition of 66% rayon, 30% nylon, and 4% spandex. Other pontes have polyester as the primary fiber.

My pattern was the Patterns for Pirates Mama Bear Joggers.  I bought these because they have a variety of waistband, pocket, hem, and rise options. Looking at the size chart, I discovered my measurements put me in a size M hip, XL high hip, XS thighs, and a L calf! I have strange proportions! This explains why I have problems with getting a good fit in ready-to-wear.

Below is a diagram from an article on the New Mexico State University website.  I’m a heart shape.

I compared the medium pattern piece to my already modified Itch to Stitch Mountain View Pull-on Jeans (laid on top) which are designed for a stretch woven.

It seems the joggers pattern is shaped for a diamond figure, and I have the concave proportions of a heart.

I had to reduce the hip and upper thigh, add width to the lower leg, and add to the rise.  I also shortened the legs by about six inches. This is another advantage to sewing: instead of lopping the six inches off the bottom of a pair of pants I shorten the pattern in two places, above and below the knee, and am able to keep the proportions correct.

As I began sewing the pants, they started morphing into the Mountain View pants which I’ve made several times.  I prefer the construction sequence of those pants with the outer leg seam sewn last, which allows for ease of altering.  I also used the Mountain View waistband, which is quick and easy.  An inner and outer waistband are sewn together and the elastic is stretched and sewn to the seam allowance.  I realized I really didn’t need the other pattern.  It makes more sense to use the pattern that I had already fitted.

 

I should have used a thinner fabric for the pocket lining because they bag out a little at the bottom.

Worn with a pullover sweater I knitted way back in 2007 and still wear.

The back:

Worn with a raglan tee shirt I sewed in December:

Dressed up with a favorite thrifted velour sweater knit top, and matching purse:

I gained a few pounds post holidays and some of my pants have been feeling a little tight when sitting or eating. These ponte pants feel super comfortable and cozy, look flattering, and are a welcome addition to my wardrobe.