I have made pants and shorts using a heavily altered pattern developed from the first Simplicity pants pattern I sewed. I decided to buy a new pants pattern, the Itch to Stitch Sequoia Cargo pants, to give another pants pattern a try. This pattern has many pieces, with pockets with flaps that snap shut, and a lot of details.
I started off with a size 10 in the hips, and had to take about 6 inches off the length and also narrowed the legs. The crotch curve on my base pants pattern was deeper, and I thought it was best to keep the same curve and depth.
comparing the back piece of the Sequoia with my pants sloper on top
This is a simplified trial “patio version” to check the fit and practice some of the techniques before sewing them up in the intended chambray fabric. I didn’t use snaps in this version, but I practiced inserting them. I bought snaps with prongs, and used a hammer to pound them in, as seen in this you tube video.
The pants I made previously lacked pocket facings and interfacing, and a curved waistband. I tried the pattern instructions for the zipper fly, but prefer the perfect fly I sewed on my chambray shorts with the instructions from the Readers Digest Complete Guide to Sewing book.
The waistband is a little tricky to sew and uses elasticized knit fabric on the top half. I have ready-to-wear shorts that have this same waistband and I love them because they fit even with weight fluctuations.
For this version, I kept the leg straps but substituted buttons for the snaps.
I tried rolling them up to different lengths. Because I have full calves, I like this length best. If I want to go higher, I’d rather wear shorts.
My chambray version is all cut out and ready to be sewn. Woo – hoo!
Stitch It Again 